...Hendrick's is a more intriguing proposition, because it is one of the few gins really to shine both alone (making it excellent Martini material) and with tonic. It comes in a dark brown, apothecary-style bottle, which immediately logs in your mind that here is something special, as, indeed, it is. Full-bodied and rounded, it has an almost oily texture and the deceptive, muscular strength of a ballet dancer. Its unusual list of botanicals includes cucumber (which you can, just discern) and rose. Its makers suggest drinking it with a slice of cucumber in place of citrus. This is effective but use only the peel, the only bit with flavour.